Codorníu - Lunch - Olèrdola

This is your day to take in a little history as well as a little "cava" without having to drive much farther than 45 minutes. Cava is the Spanish equivalent of French champagne and the most famous cava region, the Anoia and the Penedès also happens to be in Barcelona's backyard. Lucky for you because the cava is a very high quality and reasonably priced.

This day trip will take you on a tour at Codorníu, one of the largest and the most famous cava cellars of Spain. After enough bubbly I recommend heading south for a large Spanish style lunch in a "Masia" (a farmhouse converted into a restaurant) and then tour the ruins of an ancient settlement originally established 4,000 years ago but later thrived first as a major Roman settlement and then during the Middle Ages.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Touring the Cava Cellar:

Established in 1551 Codorníu is one of the oldest family-owned businesses in the world. It also touts one of the largest underground cava storage caves in the area and during the tour you can ride a train around the maze of bottles. No tour is complete without visiting the tasting room and you won't be disappointed. Codorníu is opened seven days a week and their phone number is (34) 93-818-3232. Their website is www.codorniu.com. I recommend calling and setting up a tour in English.

Eating Lunch:

There are two Masias I recommend eating at so you'll have to decide which one you'd prefer. Both a quaint old farmhouses and both have good food so you just have to decide if you want to go to the "newer" one (built in 1812) or the older one (originally built in the 16th century).

The "new" one is "La Casa del Conill" (The House of the Rabbit) located in the small town of Sant Miguel d'Olèrdola right before you get to the ruins. You can't miss it; it is a big white building that says "Restaurant" on the side of it. When you are making your reservation ask to sit in the "bodega" room. Once the farmhouse stables, it is now a quaint room lined with port barrels and old livery. At La Casa de Conill their specialty is garlic rabbit. I also like their Duck breast in an orange sauce and their steak in a Roquefort cheese sauce.

The "older" restaurant, Restaurant Masia Segarrulls is closer to the Roman ruins and in my opinion, quainter. It is also slightly more expensive. All their food is good but one of their specialties is a sizzling steak on a heated piece of slate.

Touring the Ruins:

Perched on top of the highest hill within the region, the hill of Olèrdola was inhabited as long ago as the Bronze Age (4,000 years ago) until as "recently" as the Middle Ages (12th-13th century). It was a favorite place to settle due to its strategic location and water supply.

Personally the most interesting parts of the ruins are the giant 350,000 litre Roman cistern used to collect rainwater and the anthropomorphic tombs. Cut in stone in the form of a human figure, these tombs were used around the 10th and 11th century.

To learn more about Olèrdola, please go to the official government site at www.mac.es.

Driving Directions:

Directions to Codorníu from Barcelona: Before giving any directions I need to first manage your expectations- signage is Spain is awful and there is a good possibility of getting lost. As a general rule of thumb, the blue signs are for the larger toll roads and signs to "Tarragona" generally take you south, southwest and signs to "Girona" or "France" take you north, northeast.

Leave Barcelona towards the south and follow signs to the airport but not all the way to the airport. Get onto the A-2 heading away from the ocean with Barcelona on your right. This road joins up with A-7 going in the direction of Tarragona (more or less south). Go through a tollbooth and then exit on exit 27, which is Sant Sadurni d'Anoia. Make a right and then follow signs to Codorníu. The cava cellar is only about 1 mile from the highway.

Directions from Codorníu to the restaurants and Olèrdola: Get back on A-7 again heading south (away from Barcelona and towards Tarragona). Exit on exit 29, which is the one that leads you to Sitges and Vilanova (the road is called C-15). The closest town to this exit is Vilafranca de Penedès. Go left towards Sitges/Vilanova and you will be going more or less east towards the ocean. Once on the C-15 you will cross the highway A-7 and continue on this back road for about 5-10 minutes. Look for signs to Sant Miguel d'Olèrdola. If you want to eat at the restaurant La Casa del Conill you will exit here and go into town. The address is Anselm Clavé, 13, phone: 93-890-2001. (You can't miss it.) If you want to eat at the Restaurant Masia Segarrulls or if you just want to go right to the ruins continue past the town Sant Miguel d'Olèrdola on the road C-15 and exit about 2 minutes past the town at Olèrdola. You will see a sign for the ruins, you can't miss it. As you're heading up the hill towards the ruins the restaurant in on your left. The phone number for Restaurant Masia Segarrulls is 93-890-3799

Directions from Olèrdola to Barcelona: You will not be backtracking to get back to Barcelona but rather you will be going on the pay road that parallels the coast, the one with all the tunnels. Turn right on C-15 after leaving Olèrdola and continue east. After about 5 minutes there will be a split in the road, follow the split towards Vilanova and not towards Sitges. You will go through a small town and wind your way towards the coast. Follow signs to the highway C-32. Get on to C-32 heading north towards Barcelona. You will go through a tollbooth, some tunnels, past the airport and eventually to Barcelona. In total you will drive on C-32 for about 30 minutes before you get to Barcelona.

 

How to eat lunch at a "Masia"
and not feel like a
complete tourist:

In Cataluña it is very typical for families to go out to the countryside and eat a large lunch at a rural restaurant, a "Masia". Weekends are the norm, but most Masias are also opened during the week. Plan on staying at least 2 hours for lunch.

You will order a "primero", a first course (salad, soup, roasted vegetables, dried meats, etc.) and then a "segundo", a second course (fish, meat, lamb, duck, rabbit or pork.) Most primeros should be accompanied by "pan con tomate", bread with tomato. In Masias you are typically brought a plate of sliced and toast peasant bread, some tomatoes and cloves of garlic.

Take the toast, rub garlic on it. Cut the tomato in half and rub the inside of the tomato on the toast. (The riper the tomato the better.) Then drizzle olive oil on the bread and top it off with a dash of salt. It is t-a-s-t-y!

After you have finished eating your main course you order dessert. Then after dessert (I stress after) you will have the chance to order a coffee. The most typical coffees are a "cortado", an espresso with a splash of milk or a "café solo", an espresso. If you are feeling up for it you can then order an after-dinner drink.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MAPS

 
 
Ganduxer.com All rights reserved 2002. Designed by smart-steps.com