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Codorníu
- Lunch - Olèrdola
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This
is your day to take in a little history as well as a little
"cava" without having to drive much farther than
45 minutes. Cava is the Spanish equivalent of French champagne
and the most famous cava region, the Anoia and the Penedès
also happens to be in Barcelona's backyard. Lucky for you
because the cava is a very high quality and reasonably priced.
This
day trip will take you on a tour at Codorníu, one
of the largest and the most famous cava cellars of Spain.
After enough bubbly I recommend heading south for a large
Spanish style lunch in a "Masia" (a farmhouse
converted into a restaurant) and then tour the ruins of
an ancient settlement originally established 4,000 years
ago but later thrived first as a major Roman settlement
and then during the Middle Ages.
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Established
in 1551 Codorníu
is one of the oldest family-owned businesses in the world.
It also touts one of the largest underground cava storage
caves in the area and during the tour you can ride a train
around the maze of bottles. No tour is complete without
visiting the tasting room and you won't be disappointed.
Codorníu is opened seven days a week and their phone
number is (34) 93-818-3232. Their website is www.codorniu.com.
I recommend calling and setting up a tour in English.
There
are two Masias I recommend eating at so you'll have to decide
which one you'd prefer. Both a quaint old farmhouses and
both have good food so you just have to decide if you want
to go to the "newer" one (built in 1812) or the
older one (originally built in the 16th century).
The
"new" one is "La Casa del Conill" (The
House of the Rabbit) located in the small town of Sant Miguel
d'Olèrdola right before you get to the ruins. You
can't miss it; it is a big white building that says "Restaurant"
on the side of it. When you are making your reservation
ask to sit in the "bodega" room. Once the farmhouse
stables, it is now a quaint room lined with port barrels
and old livery. At La Casa de Conill their specialty is
garlic rabbit. I also like their Duck breast in an orange
sauce and their steak in a Roquefort cheese sauce.
The
"older" restaurant, Restaurant Masia Segarrulls
is closer to the Roman ruins and in my opinion, quainter.
It is also slightly more expensive. All their food is good
but one of their specialties is a sizzling steak on a heated
piece of slate.
Perched
on top of the highest hill within the region, the hill of
Olèrdola was inhabited as long ago as the Bronze
Age (4,000 years ago) until as "recently" as the
Middle Ages (12th-13th century). It was a favorite place
to settle due to its strategic location and water supply.
Personally
the most interesting parts of the ruins are the giant 350,000
litre Roman cistern used to collect rainwater and the anthropomorphic
tombs. Cut in stone in the form of a human figure, these
tombs were used around the 10th and 11th century.
To
learn more about Olèrdola,
please go to the official government site at www.mac.es.
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Directions
to Codorníu from Barcelona: Before
giving any directions I need to first manage your
expectations- signage is Spain is awful and there
is a good possibility of getting lost. As a general
rule of thumb, the blue signs are for the larger toll
roads and signs to "Tarragona" generally
take you south, southwest and signs to "Girona"
or "France" take you north, northeast.
Leave
Barcelona towards the south and follow signs to the
airport but not all the way to the airport. Get onto
the A-2 heading away from the ocean with Barcelona
on your right. This road joins up with A-7 going in
the direction of Tarragona (more or less south). Go
through a tollbooth and then exit on exit 27, which
is Sant Sadurni d'Anoia. Make a right and then follow
signs to Codorníu. The cava cellar is only
about 1 mile from the highway.
Directions
from Codorníu to the restaurants and Olèrdola:
Get
back on A-7 again heading south (away from Barcelona
and towards Tarragona). Exit on exit 29, which is
the one that leads you to Sitges and Vilanova (the
road is called C-15). The closest town to this exit
is Vilafranca de Penedès. Go left towards Sitges/Vilanova
and you will be going more or less east towards the
ocean. Once on the C-15 you will cross the highway
A-7 and continue on this back road for about 5-10
minutes. Look for signs to Sant Miguel d'Olèrdola.
If you want to eat at the restaurant La Casa del Conill
you will exit here and go into town. The address is
Anselm Clavé, 13, phone: 93-890-2001. (You
can't miss it.) If you want to eat at the Restaurant
Masia Segarrulls or if you just want to go right to
the ruins continue past the town Sant Miguel d'Olèrdola
on the road C-15 and exit about 2 minutes past the
town at Olèrdola. You will see a sign for the
ruins, you can't miss it. As you're heading up the
hill towards the ruins the restaurant in on your left.
The phone number for Restaurant Masia Segarrulls is
93-890-3799
Directions
from Olèrdola to Barcelona: You
will not be backtracking to get back to Barcelona
but rather you will be going on the pay road that
parallels the coast, the one with all the tunnels.
Turn right on C-15 after leaving Olèrdola and
continue east. After about 5 minutes there will be
a split in the road, follow the split towards Vilanova
and not towards Sitges. You will go through a small
town and wind your way towards the coast. Follow signs
to the highway C-32. Get on to C-32 heading north
towards Barcelona. You will go through a tollbooth,
some tunnels, past the airport and eventually to Barcelona.
In total you will drive on C-32 for about 30 minutes
before you get to Barcelona.
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How
to eat lunch at a "Masia"
and not feel like a
complete tourist:
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In
Cataluña it is very typical for families
to go out to the countryside and eat a large
lunch at a rural restaurant, a "Masia".
Weekends are the norm, but most Masias are also
opened during the week. Plan on staying at least
2 hours for lunch.
You
will order a "primero", a first course
(salad, soup, roasted vegetables, dried meats,
etc.) and then a "segundo", a second
course (fish, meat, lamb, duck, rabbit or pork.)
Most primeros should be accompanied by "pan
con tomate", bread with tomato. In Masias
you are typically brought a plate of sliced
and toast peasant bread, some tomatoes and cloves
of garlic.
Take
the toast, rub garlic on it. Cut the tomato
in half and rub the inside of the tomato on
the toast. (The riper the tomato the better.)
Then drizzle olive oil on the bread and top
it off with a dash of salt. It is t-a-s-t-y!
After you have finished eating your main course
you order dessert. Then after dessert (I stress
after) you will have the chance to order a coffee.
The most typical coffees are a "cortado",
an espresso with a splash of milk or a "café
solo", an espresso. If you are feeling
up for it you can then order an after-dinner
drink.
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